Cotton sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Cotton grows as a fluffy boll around the seeds of the Gossypium plant, and the fibres are short, so they must be spun into yarn before weaving. The Indian subcontinent was one of the earliest places where cotton was spun and woven, and its cloth travelled far across the old trade routes. Today India grows cotton mainly in Gujarat, Maharashtra, Telangana and Rajasthan, among other states. Some sarees use hand-spun khadi yarn, others use mill yarn in many counts, and the count decides how fine, sheer or sturdy the finished cloth will be.

How the cloth is made

Cotton is ginned to remove the seeds, carded to straighten the fibres, and spun into yarn on a spindle, charkha or in a mill. The yarn is sized with starch so that it can bear the strain of the loom, then dyed or bleached. Handloom weavers stretch the warp, work the shuttle through the weft, and add borders with extra threads or with dobby and jacquard attachments. Fine counts, such as those used for muslin and jamdani, need very skilled hands and a humid room so the yarn does not snap. Finishing may include washing, calendering, or a light starch for the crisp look many people love.

How it feels and falls

Cotton is absorbent and breathable, so it feels comfortable on hot, humid days and does not trap heat. A soft mulmul or voile falls loosely and almost drifts, while a crisp, starched handloom stands up in fan-shaped pleats and holds them well through a long day. Cotton takes colour readily, which is why Indian cottons are known for bright prints and deep indigo, madder and turmeric shades. It creases easily and shrinks a little on the first wash, but it also gets softer with each wash. It is a good fibre for people with sensitive skin and for students, teachers, doctors and anyone else who wears a saree all day.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Cotton sarees come from nearly every state. Well-known names are Chanderi and Maheshwari in Madhya Pradesh, Kota Doria in Rajasthan, Venkatagiri and Uppada in Andhra Pradesh, Gadwal and Narayanpet in Telangana, Kanchi cotton and Kovai cotton in Tamil Nadu, Dharwad and Ilkal in Karnataka, the Kerala set mundu and kasavu in Balaramapuram and Chendamangalam, and Phulia and Shantipur in West Bengal. Bangladesh is famed for its jamdani from Dhaka and Narayanganj, and Sri Lanka and Pakistan also have strong handloom cotton traditions.

How to tell the real thing

Hold the cloth up to the light and look at the yarn. Handloom cotton shows slight variations in thickness and weave, while powerloom cloth looks very even. Check the border from the back: a woven border has threads carried on the reverse, while a printed border is flat. A handloom mark or a weaver cooperative tag is a useful sign. Rub a corner between your fingers, and real cotton feels soft and slightly dry, while a polycotton blend feels smoother and a little slippery. If a very fine, expensive jamdani is offered at a low price, ask where and by whom it was woven.

Famous sarees and centres

• Chanderi: Sheer cotton and silk-cotton from Madhya Pradesh with a light, glassy feel.
• Maheshwari: Cotton and silk-cotton from the banks of the Narmada, with reversible borders.
• Kota Doria: Square-checked, airy cotton and silk from Kaithoon near Kota in Rajasthan.
• Dhakai Jamdani: Fine cotton muslin with woven motifs, from Dhaka in Bangladesh.
• Venkatagiri: Light cotton from Andhra Pradesh with fine zari borders.
• Kasavu: Off-white Kerala cotton with a gold border, worn at Onam and Vishu.
• Gadwal: Cotton body with a silk border, from Telangana, with an interlocked join.
• Bengal tant: Light, crisp cotton from Bengal, woven for Bengal's heat.

Care

• Wash new cotton separately, as deeply dyed cloth can bleed in the first washes.
• Use mild soap and avoid wringing very fine cloth.
• Dry in the shade to keep colours from fading.
• Iron while still slightly damp, and starch lightly if you like a crisp pleat.

Sources and further reading

• Cotton on Wikipedia
• Handloom (Wikipedia)
• Jamdani (Wikipedia)