Madisar

What is Madisar?

Madisar, also called Koshavam, is not a weave but a way of tying a sari. It is worn mainly by Tamil Brahmin women, and also by Vishvakarma (Asari) women, though it is chiefly linked with the first group. The tie keeps features of the veshti, or men's dhoti, and of the koshavam, a common Tamil drape. A full madisar takes nine yards of cloth, while the modern sari drape uses six. It can be silk, cotton, a cotton-silk blend or a polyester-cotton blend. The pallu is the end brought over the shoulder.

Where does Madisar come from?

Sari tying in India is old, with evidence from between the 2nd century BC and 1st century AD, but the madisar and most modern drapes are recent and cannot be dated precisely. Different communities developed their own versions from an older koshavam style that needed more cloth, nine yards. Nine-yard traditions include the nauvari of Maharashtra, a Kannada drape and a Telugu Brahmin style. The name madisar is usually tied to Tamil Brahmins, with Iyer and Iyengar versions. Today it is rarely daily wear.

How is Madisar made?

No single weaving process is tied to the madisar, because it is a drape rather than a cloth type. It is made from a sari of nine yards, in silk, cotton, cotton-silk or polyester-cotton. A shorter six-yard sari can also be tied in a simplified madisar, which is easier and more convenient but not traditional. The two main ties are the Iyer kattu and the Iyengar kattu, and they differ in which shoulder carries the pallu.

Colours, motifs and borders

The first madisar a woman wears is conventionally maroon or red. Other colours are now chosen as people wish, so the palette is not fixed. The pallu, the layer that comes over the shoulder, is placed on the right by Iyers and on the left by Iyengars. Beyond that placement, no particular motifs, borders or pallu designs are named for the madisar.

How Madisar is worn

A madisar uses nine yards, against six for the modern sari drape. It is tied so that it carries features of the veshti or dhoti and of the koshavam. Iyers put the pallu over the right shoulder; Iyengars put it over the left. A six-yard version exists and is easier, though it is not the traditional form. No blouse or petticoat is described for this drape.

When Madisar is worn

Tamil Brahmin women are expected to wear the madisar after marriage. Both Iyer and Iyengar women wear it for religious and ceremonial occasions: weddings, the Seemantham ceremony held during a first pregnancy, pujas, other religious rites and death ceremonies. It is also worn on selected festive days. It is hardly used as everyday dress now.

Styles of Madisar

The two named sub-styles are the Iyer kattu and the Iyengar kattu, which differ in the shoulder that carries the pallu. Other communities made their own nine-yard drapes from the older koshavam, including the nauvari in Maharashtra, a Kannada drape and a Telugu Brahmin style. The madisar name itself is usually associated with Tamil Brahmins. A modern six-yard madisar is also tied; it is less traditional but easier. Cloth choices range from silk and cotton to blends.

What Madisar means

The madisar marks married status among Tamil Brahmin women, who are required to use it after marriage. It is also a ceremonial dress for religious rites, from weddings and pujas to death ceremonies. The first one is traditionally maroon or red. The drape is now rarely daily wear, but it is still chosen for festivals and ceremonies. No Geographical Indication or other official heritage label is given for it.

Questions people ask about Madisar

Good reading and sources

• Madisar on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data