Brocade

What is Brocade?

Brocade is a decorative cloth woven on a shuttle loom. Silk is common, and gold or silver thread may be added. The pattern comes from an extra weft, a thread laid across the ground cloth rather than needed for its structure, so the surface can look embroidered. These added threads can make the fabric firmer and give the face a slight raised effect. On the back they may hang loose or be trimmed away. In Guatemala, Maya weavers use brocade on backstrap looms. In India, Banarasi brocade decorates saris, dresses and dupattas. It is also used for evening wear, formal clothing, vestments and costumes.

Where does Brocade come from?

Brocade production in China goes back to the Warring States period, and examples have come from tombs of that time. China developed several separate brocade styles, with well-known traditions tied to Nanjing, Suzhou and Chengdu. In the Malay world, songket is a brocade type. During the Middle Ages, silk brocade was costly and available to wealthy people in China, India, Persia, Greece, Japan, Korea and Byzantium. Byzantine weavers were praised for their brocades. From the fourth to sixth centuries silk making was largely unknown in the West, then in the sixth century two monks brought sericulture to the Byzantine emperor. Byzantium became a major silk producer until the ninth century. Italy later became Europe's leading fine-silk maker, especially in the Renaissance.

How is Brocade made?

Brocade is normally woven on a draw loom, a loom built to control complex pattern threads. The ornament is formed by a supplementary weft. This thread is not part of the basic weave that holds the warp together; it is added for design. If the pattern thread crosses the whole width and floats at the back, the cloth is called continuous brocade. If it appears only where the motif sits, it is discontinuous. Cutwork and broché are versions where the extra yarns are cut away. Maya weavers in Guatemala work brocade on backstrap looms. Today most brocade is woven on Jacquard looms, which can produce complex, tapestry-like patterns.

Colours, motifs and borders

The ornament in brocade is added to the main cloth. It can stiffen the fabric a little, and it usually gives the face a low-relief look. The back may show loose floats or cut ends. Persian designs were often woven into medieval brocade, and Christian subjects also appear. Some medieval pieces were further decorated with precious or semiprecious stones, small enamel medallions, embroidery or appliqué. Modern brocade more often uses sequins and beading instead of stones. Coloured silks are common, with gold and silver threads sometimes added. The sources do not name specific motifs for the Banarasi saris.

How Brocade is worn

Brocade is not tied to one drape. The sources describe it as a fabric used for evening and formal clothing, for vestments and for costumes. In India, Banarasi brocade is used on saris, dresses and dupattas. No particular style of draping a sari is given in the material. A reader should picture brocade as a decorative cloth that can become a garment or a furnishing fabric, not as a single regional sari.

When Brocade is worn

In the Middle Ages, brocade was expensive and reserved for the wealthy. Byzantine emperors charged high prices for it. In late medieval Europe, fine silk brocade from Italy was chosen by rich courtly families, and the Burgundian court was noted for expensive dress. In the Renaissance, brocade suited the sculptural lines of fashion. Today brocade is used mostly for upholstery and draperies, but also for evening and formal clothing, vestments and costumes. In India, Banarasi brocade appears on saris, dresses and dupattas.

Styles of Brocade

Brocade has many regional forms. China has several distinct styles, including traditions linked to Nanjing, Suzhou and Chengdu. In Southeast Asia, songket is a brocade type in the Malay world. Italy produced fine silk brocades in the Renaissance. India uses Banarasi brocade for saris and other garments. The sources do not compare handloom and powerloom brocade directly. They do note that most modern brocade is woven on Jacquard looms. Some brocade fabrics resemble tapestries, but the article says they should not be confused with true tapestries.

What Brocade means

Brocade carries different meanings in different places. In China, early brocade survives in tombs and shows a long craft history. In Byzantium, silk production was once a guarded secret, and brocade became a costly court fabric. In Guatemala, brocade is the most popular way Maya weavers decorate cloth on backstrap looms. In India, Banarasi brocade supports the decoration of saris and dupattas. The sources give no Geographical Indication or official heritage tag for brocade as a whole. They also do not describe a single weaving community for Banarasi brocade.

Questions people ask about Brocade

Good reading and sources

• Encyclopaedia BritannicaArticle

• Brocade on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos and video
• Wikidata recordOpen data