Abrawan

What is Abrawan?

Abrawan is a muslin cloth from the Indian subcontinent. Cotton was the main fibre, and silk versions also existed. It was woven plain, and the result was transparent and light. Dacca produced some of the best cloth of this type. The name means water in motion, which points to how fine the fabric was. A related form is the Tarbana saree: silk runs in the warp and zari, metal thread, in the weft. The sources do not say who wore Abrawan or describe a drape. They do say that weavers made it, and that imitations later appeared as the original qualities faded.

Where does Abrawan come from?

The sources place Abrawan in the Indian subcontinent and tie its finest examples to Dacca. The name means water in motion, and writers of the period also called muslins woven air. Two anecdotes show its reputation. One concerns an argument between Aurangzeb, the sixth Mughal emperor, and his daughter about modesty. The other tells of Alivardi Khan, Nawab of Bengal, expelling a weaver after a cow swallowed Abrawan cloth that had been spread on a lawn. The article says that in time the original workmanship lost its authentic traits and that imitations can be seen.

How is Abrawan made?

Cotton was the chief fibre, with silk variations. The structure was a plain weave, sheer and light. Weavers in Dacca made some of the finest muslins in this style. The article notes that they wove cloth of similar quality in the monsoon, because moist air kept the yarn from breaking when the weather was dry. For the Tarbana form, silk makes up the warp and zari makes up the weft. The sources do not give a loom type, a weaving time or a dye process.

Colours, motifs and borders

The sources describe no motif, border or pallu for Abrawan. Its look came from the weave: plain, transparent and light, with a fineness compared to moving water. The Tarbana form adds zari in the weft and uses silk in the warp. No colours are named. There is no list of patterns or decorative figures. The cloth's identity rests on fineness and transparency rather than ornament.

How Abrawan is worn

The sources do not record a drape for Abrawan. They say only that the Tarbana saree is a form of Abrawan. There is no description of a blouse, a petticoat or a wrapping method. The cloth itself was sheer and light, but how it was placed on the body is not given. This page therefore leaves the wearing style open instead of guessing.

When Abrawan is worn

The sources name no wedding, festival or rite for Abrawan. The two anecdotes place the cloth in Mughal and Bengal settings, with Aurangzeb and Alivardi Khan, but they do not say it was worn for a ceremony. Daily use is not described either. Any statement about occasion would go beyond the article.

Styles of Abrawan

Abrawan came in cotton and silk versions. A form of it is the Tarbana saree, which has a silk warp and a zari weft. The article says that over time the original workmanship lost its authentic qualities and that imitations appeared. It does not compare handloom with powerloom, and it names no other regional styles.

What Abrawan means

The name Abrawan means water in motion, and woven air was another poetic label for muslins of the same period. Two stories carry its reputation: Aurangzeb's argument with his daughter, and Alivardi Khan's punishment of a weaver. Dacca is the setting for the fine muslin tradition described here. The article notes a loss of authentic qualities and the arrival of imitations. It gives no Geographical Indication or other official status.

Questions people ask about Abrawan

Good reading and sources

• Abrawan on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data