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EveryPallu

Other traditions wear

Folk and secular customs, and traditions that do not fit one faith.

Not every custom belongs to a single faith. Some sarees are worn by tradition, by profession or by choice, in secular, folk and mixed settings, and by communities such as the Jewish communities of Kochi and Mumbai, the Anglo-Indians and many people who follow no religion.

Secular and civic wear

The saree is worn for national days, school and college functions, cultural events and political life, and is often chosen because it feels Indian rather than because it carries a religious meaning. Handloom sarees have a place in the national story through the swadeshi movement, in which khadi and handloom cloth became a sign of self-reliance. On Independence Day and Republic Day, many women wear a saree in the colours of the flag, or in khadi. National Handloom Day, observed on 7 August, celebrates the weavers.

Smaller communities

The Bene Israel and Cochin Jewish communities of Maharashtra and Kerala have long worn the saree in daily life and for their weddings and festivals, and the Cochin Jews are known for their own regional dress. Anglo-Indian women wear sarees as well as Western clothes, in a mix that varies by region and family. Some Indian communities of Burma, Sri Lanka, Nepal and the diaspora also wear a regional saree. These practices are less documented than those of larger communities, and the details differ between families.

Folk and regional wear

Some sarees are linked to a place and a way of life rather than a faith. The nine yard kashta saree of Maharashtra's fishing and farming women, the Koli saree of Mumbai's fishing community, the Kodagu drape in which the pleats are at the back and the pallu is pinned over the left shoulder, and the Gujarati seedha pallu are all examples of folk or community styles. The wearer may be Hindu, Muslim, Christian or of another faith, and what matters is the region and the work.

Personal choice and the modern saree

Many women today choose the saree as a personal style, not as a duty. Some wear a handloom saree daily as a statement, there are online communities that share drapes and weaves, and designers have reworked the cloth for new occasions, from jackets with sarees to the ready-to-wear style. Men and non-binary people also wear sarees in some places, as a matter of choice or performance. A good rule for any such use is to learn the cloth and its makers, to credit the weaver and to wear it with care.

Worth knowing

  • Khadi saree: The hand-spun, hand-woven cloth linked to the swadeshi movement.
  • National Handloom Day: Observed each year on 7 August.
  • Koli saree: The short saree of the fishing communities of Mumbai.
  • Kodagu style: A drape in which the pleats are at the back.
  • Swadeshi movement: The campaign for Indian-made goods, including handloom cloth.

Good to know

  • Wash khadi in cold water with mild soap and dry in shade.
  • Starch handloom lightly and iron on the reverse.
  • Learn the weaver and the region of the cloth you buy.

Sources and further reading

About this page

Original text by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. If we have something wrong, tell us.

Other traditions on EveryPallu

The sarees written up so far, newest and best known first.

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

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Every Monday: seven sarees you may not know, what is being worn this week, and one drape explained step by step.