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Discontinuous weft

A weave where a coloured or zari weft runs only within its own motif, turning back instead of crossing the whole width.

A swatch drawn for this page, not a picture of Discontinuous weft.

Also: kadhua, kadhwa, kadwa

In ordinary weaving each weft thread runs from one edge of the cloth to the other. In a discontinuous weft, a separate small length of weft is worked back and forth in just the area of one motif, and then stops. Each motif therefore has its own small thread, and nothing floats across the back. The weaver needs a small shuttle or a hand-held needle for every motif, and the work is slow. Kadhua, or kadhwa, is the Banarasi name for this method. It is also how tapestry weave and the Paithani peacock are made.

See also

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The weekly drape

Every Monday: seven sarees you may not know, what is being worn this week, and one drape explained step by step.