Brocade
A heavy woven cloth with raised patterns made by extra weft threads, often in zari.
Also: kinkhab, kimkhwab, kimkhab
A brocade is a figured cloth in which the pattern is woven from extra weft threads, usually of silk or zari, that float on the surface of the base cloth. The raised pattern gives the saree its weight and its richness of surface. Varanasi is the best known centre for brocade sarees in India. In the past, the best cloth was called kinkhab in Hindi. Brocade is usually woven on a jacquard or, in older practice, with the help of draw boys who raise the warp threads by hand. The pallu and border of a brocade saree are the most heavily worked.