Regional drapes
The Bihari and Maithili drape
Bihar's saree, often worn with the pallu over the head, with Bhagalpur tussar and painted Madhubani sarees as local cloths.
In Bihar, women wear the saree in a drape close to the Nivi, though many bring the pallu forward over the right shoulder, as in the seedha pallu, or over the head in front of elders. The region is known for tussar silk from Bhagalpur and for Madhubani painting, which is also used on sarees.
Wrapped step by step
Each drawing shows the cloth so far, with the newest step outlined in gold. The figure is a front view; the wearer's left is on your right.
Step 1 Tuck the plain end into the petticoat at the right hip. Step 2 Wrap the cloth round the waist once. Step 3 Gather the front into pleats. Step 4 Tuck the pleats in at the navel. Step 5 Carry the pallu round the back and bring it to the front over the right shoulder, as in the seedha pallu. Step 6 Draw part of the pallu over the head when in front of elders or at a rite. Step 7 Straighten the border and let the end fall. Finished The Bihari and Maithili drape, seen from the front.
Where it comes from
Bihar has been a weaving region for a long time, and Bhagalpur is known for tussar, a wild silk with a natural gold shade. The Mithila area in the north produces a folk painting tradition, and the same motifs, fish, birds and the sun, are painted or printed on sarees. The drape itself follows the custom of north India, where the head is covered in the presence of elders.
How it looks
The cloth is wrapped, pleated and tucked in as usual. The pallu is arranged in a way that varies by family: on the left shoulder in the city, over the right in some villages, and over the head for ritual. Cotton and tussar are common, and red, yellow and green are popular for festivals.
Who wears it and when
Women wear it at Chhath, at weddings and at Teej. For Chhath, the sun worship held after Diwali, women commonly dress in a simple traditional saree, with the pallu over the head as they stand in the water. In the Maithil community the bride's dress is often red or yellow.
Sarees worn this way
Also part of it, and being written: Madhubani painting (The folk painting of Mithila, which is also used on sarees.).
Sources and further reading
Original text and drawings by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. The drawings are simplified diagrams of the order of wrapping, not a lesson: how a drape is worn differs from family to family. If we have something wrong, tell us.