The sarees of Dhaniakhali

What is woven here

Tant is the Bengali word for the handloom saree, and this area makes light, crisp cotton sarees with woven borders. Common looks are a plain or striped body with a contrasting border, and bolder stripes in strong colours. Some weavers also make jamdani-style sarees with hand-added motifs. Cotton counts and border designs vary, and the best sarees have an even, close weave.

The craft and its people

Weaving is done in homes in the villages, by Tanti and other weaving families, and the work is split between dyeing, warp preparation and the loom. Sarees are sold to local traders and through Kolkata markets. As with other handloom areas, weavers have been affected by powerloom competition and by changing demand, and cooperatives have helped some find steady buyers.

Seeing it

Visits are best arranged through a craft organisation or a local contact, since this is a rural weaving area without tourist services. Villages in the block can be reached from Kolkata in a day. Ask to see the process of making the warp and setting it on the loom, which is as interesting as the weaving.

A trail idea for Dhaniakhali

1. A weaving village in Dhaniakhali Visit a household loom and watch a border being woven into the saree's edge.
2. A dye house See how cotton thread is dyed in strong colours before it goes to the loom.
3. The weekly handloom market Look for a haat where weavers sell cloth to traders, if one is running on the day you visit.